We feel that for such details as the edging, a simple pocket, and no collar - basic features of the traditional costume "Chanel" is something much more than cut and silhouette. The creator of a completely new aesthetic has given us the opportunity of denial - the most valuable and the most revolutionary of women from the time of Adam and Eve.
Without the past
Until now, no one biographer Coco Chanel I did not find the exact metrics and records as to where and how the family had a great future Mademoiselle. She herself said that she was born in Auvergne in 1893, he was orphaned early and therefore aunts raised, but later found out that Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was born 10 years earlier, and not in the Auvergne, in Saumur. After the death of her mother's brothers threw his father and so years to fifteen children, including Gabrielle wandered in families and orphanages. Wanting as early as possible to gain independence, Gabriel went to work canary in the country club, where, in particular, sang provocative song about a chicken-bully - Coco. It was there for her - thin, shaggy, vostronosenkoy and stuck the nickname Coco. Which quickly became a family name - the name "Gabriel" Chanel hated, because it was born from the hideous childhood, the memory of which she thoroughly killed his whole life ...
The club Coco attracted rich Parisian Balzanu, who took her with him. Coco has become a kept woman. Then, after another novel with a rich man, Coco realized he could no longer live in such a relationship. She's gone from everyone and decided to make a living by what learned in childhood - he began to buy at Galeries Lafayette thin felt hat-blank caps and hats to do. But there are some that have been popular with the ladies of the demimonde of the time, and those who went to her personally: small, minimalist decorated, light.
And after a couple of months, it went all the hats Parisian elite ... In 1910, on the rue Cambon in Paris, Coco opened its first store. She herself has lived almost all his life at the Ritz, located opposite: to buy a house, to equip him at Chanel was neither the time nor the incentive to ...
No nonsense
Kept experience and communication with the Parisian courtesan opened Coco Chanel eyes still on one thing: she realized what the main difference between "decent" legitimate wife of a rich man from the cocottes - the latter were always clean. Literally: lifestyle cocottes obliged them frequently to take a bath, wash your hair, polished heel, while in the circles of the so-called "old aristocracy" Even in the early XX century, the need for daily washing rejected: the smell of unwashed bodies abundantly crouch floral perfume that By the way, in those years did not know how to do persistent: why ladies smothered in handfuls perfume.
After becoming a free woman working at the heart of Coco put cleanliness - not only physically, but also the ideological and designer, began a struggle with all superfluous, distracting superfluous. Although before the "little black dress" it will take about ten years, the foundations of the simple basics of Chanel suit will start to think about right now.
In Europe, and around the world, were tumultuous change. Women are granted equal civil rights with men, and in places with them - the right to choose their way of life. The most courageous and threw hoops fans and picked up a tennis racket and dumbbells. But the old aristocracy was still sitting in a daze own corsets. They are something, and declared war on Coco (she was a big fan of sports, all his life an elementary physical education and believed that without a well-developed muscle woman looks older than his years).
Win corsets was easier to light: it was necessary to create a dress with no emphasis on the waist - and Coco came up silhouette with broad shoulders and a low waist, which was free from the pleated skirt. This dress could ride a bike, dance, fast dance, and most importantly - it can be quickly put on yourself, remove, wash often and easily put in order. And this dress and went anemic, and full and high, and young women. In general, it is pleasant to all. Against this dazzling lightness important goose in corsets looked round fools.
Hands up!
Once, on a visit to Coco he came to one of the sons of her brother. The boy finished college, so was my aunt - then already popular designer - directly in the official jacket of the educational institution. When the nephew went to bed, Coco slowly dragged his jacket, which she something liked: a long time she twisted it in his hands, studying the cut, lining, trim, pockets ... to try on - and not just dressing in front of a mirror, and raised there hands with bags, squatting ...
A few days later, when the young man left home, Coco brought great otrez dense black jersey, a huge pile of pins and called Woman Model (Chanel did not know how to draw, and all models are created directly on the mannequins, turning or cutting extra pieces of fabric and skalyvaya pin part attire). Habitually berating squeal from the constant pinpricks Woman, Coco created his famous jacket. It was difficult to impossible: Coco set to make a narrow fitted jacket, which could raise up both hands, while he rode up jacket not be a centimeter. And that she succeeded! Scola all as it should be in the end, Coco Chanel invited technologists, seamstresses, so they dismantled it pinhole monster and turned it into a normal pattern.
From what to wear a jacket, even somnavalas Coco - a simple straight skirt, long 7-10 cm below the knee. Not shorter! Many years later, the Great Mademoiselle very indignant when like it suits with skirts above the knee called "Chanel suit" Coco was sure that the joints such as knees and elbows - are ugly, and they certainly need to hide. That's ankles, wrists and neck - it is very beautiful, and they should always show.
Plasticine Crow
Decorate your jacket just edging, contour-following, Chanel realized that the established order, which employ a woman can spend a day, changing the details: earrings, necklaces, bag, hat ...
But the ascetic background, the greater the scope for the use of jewelry it provides. Coco took ornaments: has got a large piece of clay, bought in the store a lot of semi-precious stones and marbles of different colors, dig out your own jewelry (she has long been presented, but she did not wear - did not like) the real rubies and emeralds, and so, in many ways combining to a piece of clay stones and glass became invent elegant brooches and necklaces. First, the French were horrified: pinned to a simple woolen dress big bright brooch ?! But it looked so expressive and eloquent that ...
Now is the time " little black dress ". Strictly speaking, in the original version, it was not so small, what was in the 1960s. The first "MPP" was not such a little - had long, narrow sleeves, round neckline strictly around the throat and skirt length just above mid-calf. Ideal complement to the little black dress Coco considered a single short string of large beads or several rows of small white beads or circular gold pendant, or large circular brooch pinned to the side of the recess, or a few large simple bracelets. But only "or" no "and"! Of course, the Coco regularly depart from this rule, but others did not advise ...
We do not need anything
Despite the fact that his entire life of Coco Chanel created the things she herself was no need: after her death in 1970 in her closet have found only three suits. In general, the philosophy of a great emptiness and denial was the basis of all created Coco for more than half a century, she tried to explain to women that no dress in the world could not be greater the one who wears it. And only those who can understand, really know how to wear clothes, came up with a chicken-flighty bully.
Yulia Polonskaya
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